Different types of Drysuits

[Ronald May]

Could someone explain the difference between a Semidry suit, a Drysuit and
the double skin variety that someone just advertised on this group?
I am new to diving and don't want to buy equipment that can't be used or
maintained in WA when I move there.
I have a 2 piece 5.5mm wetsuit to use at the moment.
I have the feeling that US Divers Aqualung or Apeks regulators would be a
safe buy, but the local shop sells a lot of Mares stuff.
I think a second hand set that can be maintained easily for many years
would be better than a new cheaper brand that might not be around in
years to come.
Do regulators get corrosion inside after a period of time.
I notice that the valves on old BCD's seem to get jammed with corrosion.

Thanks in advance for any help given.

[Rheilly Phoull]

Post by Ronald May
Could someone explain the difference between a Semidry suit, a Drysuit and
the double skin variety that someone just advertised on this group?
I am new to diving and don't want to buy equipment that can't be used or
maintained in WA when I move there.
I have a 2 piece 5.5mm wetsuit to use at the moment.
I have the feeling that US Divers Aqualung or Apeks regulators would be a
safe buy, but the local shop sells a lot of Mares stuff.
I think a second hand set that can be maintained easily for many years
would be better than a new cheaper brand that might not be around in
years to come.
Do regulators get corrosion inside after a period of time.
I notice that the valves on old BCD's seem to get jammed with corrosion.
Thanks in advance for any help given.
--
Ron

For WA the wet suit should be OK unless you want to be in the drink for
hours on end.
IMHO stay with the names and maintain them, this will eliminate the
corrosion fear.
I can't see properly maintained gear getting jammed.

--
Regards ........... Rheilly Phoull

[Ronald May]

<snip>

Post by Rheilly Phoull

Post by Ronald May
I have a 2 piece 5.5mm wetsuit to use at the moment.

<snip>

Post by Rheilly Phoull

Post by Ronald May
Do regulators get corrosion inside after a period of time.
I notice that the valves on old BCD's seem to get jammed with corrosion.

For WA the wet suit should be OK unless you want to be in the drink for
hours on end.
IMHO stay with the names and maintain them, this will eliminate the
corrosion fear.
I can't see properly maintained gear getting jammed.
--
Regards ........... Rheilly Phoull

Thanks Rheilly,
I will hopefully find a website that can give water
temperatures at NZ and Australian locations which would be a guide.

I got some Australian Sport Diving magazines from my library yesterday
and found an article on regulators in the June/July 03 issue.
Australian dive shops had to pick 3 models of regulator each and then
a selection was made for the review.
Some Titanium body ones are supposed to be corrosion free but I
imagine the price would be higher. Perhaps less risk when buying
second-hand though.
Some seem to be nitrox capable and others designed to be light and
easier to use.
I would like to leave the choice of gear til later but the only
regulator I have is now classed as a vintage. I would be happy to
use it for a year on shallow dives but diving buddy's might not be
too impressed with their backup reg being from 1970. :-(

Cheers

[Rheilly Phoull]

Post by Ronald May
<snip>

Post by Rheilly Phoull

Post by Ronald May
I have a 2 piece 5.5mm wetsuit to use at the moment.

<snip>

Post by Rheilly Phoull

Post by Ronald May
Do regulators get corrosion inside after a period of time.
I notice that the valves on old BCD's seem to get jammed with corrosion.

For WA the wet suit should be OK unless you want to be in the drink for
hours on end.
IMHO stay with the names and maintain them, this will eliminate the
corrosion fear.
I can't see properly maintained gear getting jammed.
--
Regards ........... Rheilly Phoull

Thanks Rheilly,
I will hopefully find a website that can give water
temperatures at NZ and Australian locations which would be a guide.
I got some Australian Sport Diving magazines from my library yesterday
and found an article on regulators in the June/July 03 issue.
Australian dive shops had to pick 3 models of regulator each and then
a selection was made for the review.
Some Titanium body ones are supposed to be corrosion free but I
imagine the price would be higher. Perhaps less risk when buying
second-hand though.
Some seem to be nitrox capable and others designed to be light and
easier to use.
I would like to leave the choice of gear til later but the only
regulator I have is now classed as a vintage. I would be happy to
use it for a year on shallow dives but diving buddy's might not be
too impressed with their backup reg being from 1970. :-(
Cheers
--
Ronald May
Christchurch NZ

Yeh, the modern gear makes the average diver look like a christmas tree. Not
that I wouldn't mind having all the fruit but as far as I'm concerned if I
can still get air underwater I'm happy, if my buddy was too discerning I
reckon I might just check their log book :-)


--
Regards ........... Rheilly Phoull

[Jason]

Post by Ronald May
Some Titanium body ones are supposed to be corrosion free but I
imagine the price would be higher. Perhaps less risk when buying
second-hand though.
Some seem to be nitrox capable and others designed to be light and
easier to use.

Titanium regs and oxygen are a really bad combination. There's been at least
one case of one catching fire. I don't know of any titanium regs which are
suitable for nitrox.

FWIW I use a mixture of Apeks TX40 and TX50s. They perform well, are
reasonably priced and are nitrox compatible out of the box.

Jason

[Ronald May]

Post by Jason

Post by Ronald May
Some Titanium body ones are supposed to be corrosion free but I
imagine the price would be higher. Perhaps less risk when buying
second-hand though.
Some seem to be nitrox capable and others designed to be light and
easier to use.

Titanium regs and oxygen are a really bad combination. There's been at least
one case of one catching fire. I don't know of any titanium regs which are
suitable for nitrox.
FWIW I use a mixture of Apeks TX40 and TX50s. They perform well, are
reasonably priced and are nitrox compatible out of the box.
Jason

Hi, yes I see what you mean. On the Titanium models they state Nitrox
compatible up to 40% oxygen whereas the others are just nitrox
compatible.
I probably would intend using lesser amounts of Oxygen, but thanks for
pointing out that limitation.

Cheers

[Jason]

Post by Ronald May
I probably would intend using lesser amounts of Oxygen, but thanks for
pointing out that limitation.

Titanium's just a gimmick really anyway. Any weight you save on the reg,
you're only going to have to add to your weightbelt. Yes, it save a couple
of pounds when travelling, but it's a lot of money for minor benefit.

Jason

[Ronald May]

Post by Jason

Post by Ronald May
I probably would intend using lesser amounts of Oxygen, but thanks for
pointing out that limitation.

Titanium's just a gimmick really anyway. Any weight you save on the reg,
you're only going to have to add to your weightbelt. Yes, it save a couple
of pounds when travelling, but it's a lot of money for minor benefit.
Jason

I haven't had anything in Titanium before, but now that you mention it,
I dont think a light metal would be as strong if it got knocked either.
I've seen a lot of aluminium parts break that were probably theoretically
strong enough but under a little extra load they aren't.

Cheers